A Truly Nordic Ski Season

My dear friends and family, I write this post with simultaneous joy and sadness as it marks the nearing end of what has been an incredibly special ski season. For those of you who may not know, cross country skiing is one of the biggest treasures in my life, and since I dug it out of the sandbox when I was 15, I have held it close to my heart and learned so much from it (if this sounds like a love letter, well, it may as well be). It has given me some of my best friends, transformed my relationship with the outdoors, and been the means in which I’ve had so many new experiences, and this year has been no exception. While I live in the rainiest city in Norway, I do still live in Norway. Snow was indeed chased throughout the past several months and what follows are a few of my favorite spots and photos from the season. 

Floodlit trails on Mount Fløyen: 

Location: Bergen 

First, I must begin with home sweet Bergen. When it snows, even a little, in the city that means there is typically enough snowfall on Mount Fløyen to sneak a ski in if you seize the moment. My favorite time to ski at Fløyen was on the floodlit ski trail in the evenings. Just past the hut at Åsebu, there is a lookout over the city, which makes the city look like a Crayola creative light up board. While I did my best, pictures simply cannot capture it. 

 

Trails at Yddin: 

Location: Langsua National Park, near Beitostølen  

In early January, three of my lovely housemates and I squeezed into a car and headed northeast for about five and a half hours to Yddin, which is located in  Langsua National Park, near Beitostølen. There is no other way to describe this trip than sheer fun. We stayed in what may be one of the world's coziest cabins right off the trails. The course was flat and had two sets of tracks, which made it perfect for skiing with friends.                                  

Hangurstoppen:  

Location: Voss Resort (take the gondola up), Voss, Vestland county 

Three times throughout the season, I found myself on the train to Voss. Since I did not have a car, the cross-country trails that were accessible to me were the ones at the top of the gondola at Voss Resort. While these trips were a little tougher on the wallet, I thoroughly enjoyed them. The entire day—from the train ride to the skiing itself—is so serene and stunning. Because the trails start on top of the mountain at Voss, rather than the bottom or in the mountains per usual, the views were incredible the entire ski.  

 

Bymarka: 

Location: Trondheim, Trøndelag county 

In early February, I hopped on a 7:00 a.m. flight to Trondheim and was on my skis by 11:00 a.m. (it would’ve been earlier but silly Sarah getting lost and such) on some of the most remarkable trails I have ever seen. Bymarka is easily reachable from the city and has 250km of well-groomed and marked trails, and lucky for me, I had some of the best hosts to show me around.  

Fulbright grantees, research scholar Cynthia Hartung and fellow ETA (and bestie) Austin Crotteau, were truly the best companions a girl could ask for (and special thanks to Cynthia for hosting me at her home). On both Friday and Sunday, our ski adventures included visits to huts

(Elgsethytta and Grønnlia) that were worthy fairy homes, and on Saturday, we skied in the annual race at Bymarka—the Markatrimmen.

 

Skeikampen:  

Location: Gausdal Municipality in Innlandet county  

In mid-February, all the Fulbright grantees met in Oslo and presented our work. Following this, the Fulbright-Norway foundation took us all on a magical ski trip to Skeikampen ski resort on Mount Skeikampen. Sadly, my skiing (and socializing) was cut short on this trip due to some pretty nasty illness. That being said, the skiing I did was fantastic: sparkling snow and sunny skies. This photo was taken on the Saturday ski trip with some of fellow Fulbright grantees; between the company, the crisp tracks, and views, this might have been my favorite ski of the year. 

Norwegian Birkebeiner: 

Location: Rena --> Lillehammer

 

Last weekend, my ski season culminated in one of the most epic skis of my life—the Norwegian Birkebeiner. This race is arguably one of the most famous open races in the world and is based off famous Norwegian history; in around the year 1206, two groups—the Birkebeiners and the Banglers—were in the midst of an on-going civil war in what later became Norway. History has it that the Banglers wanted to kill little Prince Haakon, the heir to the throne, and so two of the Birkebeiners skied across the mountains from what is now Rena to Lillehammer with the baby prince to protect him. Little Prince Haakon survived, grew up in Trondheim, and eventually became king. Because of his peaceful (relatively, of course) reign, he eventually became known as “Haakon the Good.”.   

 

 

 

Other than simply interesting, this story is important because it helps explain the course of the race (which is 54km from Rena to Lillehammer) and the mandatory pack (3.5kg), as well as, and especially, the deep love many Norwegians have for the race. 

This weekend was a surreal haze. On Friday night, I took a bus to Rena and slept at an elementary school near the race start with a bunch of fellow skiers. This night was both a little bizarre and a ton of fun; sleeping in an elementary school room with a bunch of strangers felt odd (although it sounds similar to a hostel situation, it was not) but having the opportunity to meet racers from all over, of all different ages, and with all different skills, was incredible. 

The race itself was challenging, but also, of course it was. I did not do any training with the pack, and when my parents suggested I do early on, I told them: “Oh, that won’t be a big deal.” Hm, okay, yes it was. Babies are heavy. That being said, the sun was shining, and slowly but surely, I climbed the mountains and made it to Lillehammer. Along the way, I was met with long lines of cheering fans, a handful of good conversations with fellow skiers, lefse at the aid stations, and at around 33km “Piano Man” blaring from a speaker (fellow Bennie and Johnnie alum can imagine the smile on my face). My face was sore from the combination of smiling and sunburn at the finish as I was met with Fulbright family hugs, the piercing blue skies, and an evening full of celebration.  

 

Hurrah for snow and a year full of new ski adventures! Grateful is an understatement.